Sunday, March 30, 2008

Ha!

I’m sitting on the ICE train from Cologne to Munich and just a minute ago, the female voice on the speaker system started to make what I expected to be another announcement about our next stop, the travel options from there and the usual “We wish you a pleasant onward journey”. But to my surprise, instead she announced the results of today’s football matches in the current Bundesliga competition:
Hannover 96 vs. VfB Stuttgart - 0:0
Energie Cottbus vs. Hertha BSC Berlin - 2:1

A few minutes later another announcements says: "Come and enjoy a delicious Bratwurst with a fresh draft beer in our on-board Restaurant!"

Football and beer: Welcome to Germany!

Integration

Waiting in line on the fourth floor of a massive local government building in Cologne, I suddenly arrive in Germany, surrounded by foreign-speaking and -looking individuals, who – as far as I can see – are all Germans by nationality, waiting to speak to the lady who deals with invitations for foreign nationals. This process involves proving to the German state, that you take full financial and legal responsibility for any possible expenses or other troubles that might occur from the visit of a foreign friend or family member, thus improving his/her chances of getting a German visa in his/her respective country.
If you cannot prove a constant or high enough income, as in my case, you have to leave €1,500 in cash as a deposit, which you will only get back once you bring a copy of your friend’s passport, including the page that shows his exit stamp from Germany or the EU.

Such protective measures and the overwhelming presence of foreign-looking individuals here, together with a series of other things I’ve noticed since moving to Cologne two weeks ago, make me realise that the image of Germany I’ve entertained over the last decade was profusely flawed. It was created by having a home in Trostberg, a small, rural town in conservative Bavaria and not seeing much else of Germany in any detail for many years now. While in Trostberg I used to turn my head when I saw a black person walk past, here in the local government building of one of Germany’s biggest cities, I find myself staring at a German-looking girl who sticks out from the others waiting on the long row of blue benches. I have to admit, that the fourth floor of this building is the “Ausländeramt” – foreigners department. Nevertheless, one cannot help but notice, especially if you have almost become a foreigner yourself, that Cologne (and most other major cities, I think), have a huge population of 1st, 2nd and 3rd generation immigrants. Sometimes it seems to be a majority and rumour has it it’s at least 25%.

Personally, I am very happy about and fond of the increasing internationalisation of Germany. I have always felt a strange sense of narrow-mindedness or an attitude that we describe as “small-citizen-ly”, whenever I returned from abroad, especially when returning to Munich airport. Triggered by people’s glances, snippets of overheard conversations or glimpses of newspaper headlines, I would sometimes get this odd sensation within minutes of walking out of the plane.
Now I find myself sitting on public transport, staring at people of all kinds, guessing their origins, trying to figure out their language and enthusiastically approaching some of them, for example if I notice they speak Arabic. I want to say something like “Welcome to Germany” to them, just the way I was welcomed nearly everyday by taxi drivers, shop owners or passers-by in Jordan, but then realise the ridiculousness of it, particularly in light of the fact that they probably have spent more time in Germany in the last years than me and know more about it’s current affairs than me by far. And more than that, I can’t really say that I feel this is ‘my’ country.

Of course not everybody here is as excited as I am about Kurds, Iraqis, Kasakhs, Nigerians, East Asians, Romanians and of course – Turkish people living in Germany – there are a lot of critical voices and there are also understandable reasons for their views. If you ask me, as long as there are jobs and homes for new immigrants, they might as well all come here.
And although it is becoming increasingly difficult to settle here, it is not to say, unfortunately, that high levels of immigration will inevitably lead to opening conservative minds and to increased levels of integration.
How to define integration, though? Some people might see it as “them” having to adapt to “our” laws, rules and way of life. I would like to think that such people don’t acknowledge the value that immigrants have brought to our country – economically, socially and culturally and the benefit that will or does already result from this. I believe that integration in the case of Europe, where immigrants in some parts constitute significant parts of the population, requires adaptation, respect and interest from both sides. As much as I disagree with Turkish or Arab families living in culturally separate enclaves within German cities, where they can maintain conditions very close to ‘home’ sometimes without even a need to speak German, I believe that Germans also need to adapt to their new fellow citizens to some extent – more than just accepting that they are there and that they are different.

To be honest, I am not sure whether I am really in a position to voice such opinions, having only lived here for two weeks now and very much struggling to integrate myself.

In any case: Welcome to Germany!

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Life's not a movie.

The truth is tomorrow

and you're alone.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Dear Papa,

do you remember the days when you had to wake a little version of me up in the night, just before you would go to sleep, so that I wouldn't wet my bed? You used to wake me gently, telling me in a soft voice to sit up and kneel in bed, so I could pee into that beautiful white ceramic pot. When I was done, you'd kiss me goodnight, turn off the light again and I'd slip back into my dreams, sometimes almost without noticing I'd just relieved myself.
And do you remember how I used to always scratch myself in that same spot just under the belly, above the right leg? And it seemed like I couldn't pee if I didn't do so...

Well, last night, after more than a decade and a half, I wish you had been there to wake me up again...

What a weird sensation, to wake up wrapped in warm and wet bedding... funnily enough not a completely uncomfortable one, though ultimately embarrassing and nearly impossible to hide.

Well, I shall go - I have some washing to do now and a heavy head to rest.

Love,
Selmo

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Repatriated

If you saw me walking around the streets here, you'd think I've never been to Germany before... I gaze out of the tram window with my mouth open, I stare at every poster and advertisement, watch trains go past etc.

Weather forecast for the next week:

Wednesday: snow and rain, 6ºC
Thursday: snow and rain, 5ºC
Friday: thunderstorms, 7ºC
Saturday: snow and rain, 4ºC
Sunday: sunshine, 3ºC
Monday: sunshine/clouds, 3ºC

Monday, March 17, 2008

Beautiful

A few days ago, just after I had returned from Jordan to Bavaria, I drove south from the nearby town up the hill, through the forest and over the open fields towards Dieding – the little village that I call "home" when I don't have another home. It was late afternoon and the sun lingered low in the west, dipping the landscape in a mellow, warm light. The view was stunning - there, at the end of the fields, lay Dieding – hardly twenty houses and a few sheds, giving a home to more cows than people – and behind it stretched-out over the horizon, as far as the eyes could see from the east, where the forest starts and obstructs the view, all the way to the west, where the sun was planning to set – the Alps.

It was a No.1 Fuji Panorama Spot.

Later, sitting at the dinner table over a fresh salad with a glass of deliciously fruity white wine, looking out into the almost park-like wonder of a garden that my mother keeps, I thought for a moment: maybe I should try to find a job that I could do from here...


Some days later and several hundred kilometers further north-west, tonight I am enjoying a cup of white spearmint tea at my new desk in a students' dormitory in Cologne. I have a big room with scarily bare walls, a lot of (empty) shelf space and a sink. The smell of ground Arabic coffee is filling the air, my antique Iranian shisha-pipe is standing in the corner, the oriental rugs I brought are improving the look of the otherwise cement-coloured carpeted floor and a number of postcards are waiting to be put up, although that will hardly make it look cosy in here.
Tomorrow I'll venture out of town to IKEA in the hope not to return having spent a fortune on a car full of cheap (and usually unnecessary) things, as has happened in the past... The aim this time is only to get what is really needed and what can be permitted in light of my efforts to live an ever-more sustainable, eco-friendly and responsible life, i.e. no items that could not be purchased on the famous German "flee markets" or in socialistic furniture-sharing cooperatives and no things that only cost €2, look really stylish and "might be really useful one day".
AND: no paraffin candles that smell of strawberries.

So, wish me luck!

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Violence II

"A donkey will only understand if you beat him"
That was, what that cool cartoonist guy had told me after I'd witnessed the awful fight between drunk clubbers and the police that evening in Amman a few weeks back.

Beckilina has written a response to this and the relation between men and violence, which is very thought-provoking:
http://coffee-in-a-coldclimate.blogspot.com/ (22nd February blog)

I agree with Beckilina's argument that it is culture more than biology (nurture more than nature), which defines our way of responding to the seductiveness of violence and I am also glad to see a growing movement against these essentially masculine ways of behaviour that shape and define our world.
But I feel I need to explain this phrase about the donkey a little, or rather: elaborate on a different aspect of it. While Beckilina seems to have been particularly challenged by the last seven words of the phrase, I was - at the time at least - more concerned about the second word: donkey. What the Jordanian guy meant with 'donkey' wasn't just a 'man' or a 'guy', but a 'stupid guy', i.e. a donkey.
For a moment this sparked me off to think "Ah, it's education that is needed here... if these Arabs get more educated, they'll stop being so damn violent", but I quickly realised how ridiculous that thought was, especially when images of violent (English) hooligans came to my mind, smashing the head of a French policeman to pulp, back at some major football event in France a few years ago, or images of (US) policemen hitting (black) 'criminals'... I quickly de-linked the fight I'd seen with Jordan or the Arab world... Stupidity exists everywhere and - unfortunately - does not disappear in countries with supposed high levels of 'education'; though this is NOT to suggest that education CANNOT play a role in shifting our response to violence's seductive power towards a peaceful and non-violent way of life - I do believe that it CAN!

This reminds me of a short essay Amos Oz once wrote, called "How to cure a fanatic" (if you allow me to assume that a fanatic is one of the people very likely to resort to violence, especially in light of today's definition of fanatic/fundamentalist), in which he recommends literature as the cure... reading gives you a unique and private opportunity to see something through someone else's eyes and thus to at least consider another point of view - something fanatics don't do.

Well, considering the time of day and the lowering level of wine in the bottle on the table, I am not really in the state to continue this argument, but I do hope it gives space for much further discussion.

Peace.

Thursday, March 06, 2008

Postcards from Jordan

Jordanian ketchup




Mount Nebo with the dead sea below and Jericho in the mist behind




Alcove in Ajloun's anti-crusader castle




Deaf and blind children in Anglican institutions in Salt and Irbid respectively





A desolate room in an abandoned Anglican church in al-Husn





Madaba, an ancient Byzantine town with beautiful 6th century mosaics






Amman







For copyright/copyleft of these images see bottom of the page.

Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Leaving

I’m wearing a watch.
Very strange sensation.
It itches, moves and doesn’t feel right.
Quarter past three in the morning, it says.
Well, it doesn’t say ‘in the morning’ – it’s not that sophisticated.

I’m sitting on a yellow cushion, leaning against a soft-padded bright green bench in the colourful children’s play area of Queen Aliaa International Airport in Amman. On my right, a big TV screen is playing a “learn how to see” (equally brightly coloured) children's program in loop.
Now that I’m sitting, the exhaustion my adrenaline has been suppressing is slowly surfacing. Again, I packed till the very last minute. Then a cup of tea with my lovely neighbours and my taxi driver in my barren flat and off we went, though the empty streets of Amman, speeding towards the airport. By far the best lift to the airport I ever got. Jasim had an illegally-installed mini-screen which he could stow away at the push of a button whenever a police checkpoint was near. Add to that a first class sound system and you’ve got the hottest driving disco you can imagine. So we were watching and dancing to Lebanese girls shaking their asses with Black hip hoppers to excellent Arabic vibes and just before we arrived to the airport – like a divine intervention – Michael Jackson: “They don’t really care about us”
I was very pleased!!

It was strange to see my much-beloved flat so very empty and bare, though still more liveable than when I first saw it. All my postcards and pictures taken town, clothes packed up, laundry stowed away and the carpets rolled up and given to friends together with the scarce furniture I had. Good to know, though, that all of the things I had carefully chosen to make my little home, have found some other use or will soon be furnishing someone else’s home. And good to know also, that those things that I have grown very fond of (like the two four-meter-long Bedouin carpets in reddish hues, or my little white desk), are given away under the agreement that I can pick them up anytime I’ve set up a home again in this area, which won’t be too long.

What was even stranger, though, was how I always JUST manage to fit everything in, both in time and space, as if some magic hand behind the scenes has counted all the seconds and minutes that it will take me for every single action I need to do before I can get on the taxi to the airport and every cubic centimetre that all my stuff will take to fit exactly into all the available bags I have. It always JUST works out, to the last minute and the last cubic centimetre. There’s never a half-full bag or a half-an-hour left over before leaving. This time it lead to being hopelessly over the maximum baggage allowance, although I had already given the heaviest suitcase with things I didn’t need so soon (for example my widely-travelled-but-still-not-read 10-volume "Middle East library”) to a friend to keep for me till I come back. Luckily, the man at the Turkish Airlines counter didn’t seem to notice and I was so nervous pretending to fix something on the backpack to distract him from looking at the weight register, that I forgot to look at it myself. Must’ve been 50kg or something. Not including the 5kg Arabic sweets I was carrying as hand baggage of course.

So the first of three parts of my Water management Masters is finished. Well, it finished about a month ago and since then sooo many stories happened that remain untold – a wonderful and inspiring tour of the Anglican institutions in Jordan with my oldest and wisest friend - and whitest, for that matter (-; a great, lonely (ad)venture into the desert with a wreck of a car; a spontaneous trip to the north-west of Syria with my favourite two Syrians, which started with nearly ending up in prison, but then continued with sitting around a campfire in the mountains and swimming in the Mediterranean along the border with Turkey; and throughout all of that – the acquaintance of a number of lovely Jordanians – one in particular, a generous documentary film director – who showed me a very open, moderate and innovative side of Jordanian society, which I had not seen during the rather isolated last half year. This made me sad to leave on the one hand, but also hopeful to return to Jordan again after the next semester, to continue building on these friendships and to join in a movement that is essentially changing the otherwise rather traditional and conservative society of Jordan.

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